Do Not Throw Your Instruction Sheet Away. I will not cover every detail of assembly. I will only illustrate through pictures, adding more detail to some of the molded parts and painting where necessary. A list of detailing suggestions here.

I will take the model straight out of the box and sand and cut a higher level of detail to the over size and out of scale molded parts. I've done several hours of research on the internet to come up with a paint list using the Model Master line of paints that will reproduce the paint scheme of the Arizona on December 6, 1942.

Tools List: You will need at least these basic tools.

• Model Knife / Many available look in hobby and craft dept.
• Super Glue / Hot Stuff is best but brand X liquid and thick will work
• Model Sand Paper / you need the fine grits - hobby and craft dept.
• Rubber Bands, Masking Tape and Cloths Pins.
• Tooth Picks / Apply glue mix paint

Extra Tools List: Tools needed to follow this Build Article.

• Air Brush / Start Cheep and work up.
  • Inexpensive starter sets that use caned air are available.
• Model Paints / Scale
  • Made for the type of model being built.
• Paint Brushes
  • Made for fine detail work
• Tweezers / Working with small parts.
• Jewelers Files / Sanding parts.
• Pointed Jewelry Wire Cutters / Cutting parts from the plastic sprue.

Paint List: There are several companies that make color matches for authentic ship models painting. I like Model Master. Easy to find and slightly less expensive. Search Model Ship Retailers on Google.com  to find these out.

Model Master Marine Colors - Acryl (Acrylic Paints series)
Brass and Steel are from the Metalizer Series.
Rust-oleum primer seems to be universally compatible.

THE HULL:

Hint: Carefully remove the model parts from the plastic bag. You don't want any more plastic on plastic scratching than you already have from shipping and shelf abuse. It's sometimes very hard to get rid of these marks.

Hint: When cutting parts free always leave a small nub and trim this away latter.

Cut the Hull Halves, Stands, Propellers, Propeller Shafts and Rudder free. Everything from step1. Clean all of excess plastic and from rudder and stands until they look more like steel. Don't forget to clean Propellers and Shafts set them aside to be Primer painted later. Gently clean Hull Halves being sure to clean Propeller Shaft* mounting holes. Final removal of plastic and seems will be after 2 Hull Halves are glued.

*These mounting holes have excess plastic so clean them while you can easily get at both sides. Use the Propeller Shafts for proper fit.

"Scrape" don't cut into the edges of the Hull Halves to be glued. This gives the glue something to grip on and helps prevent model from popping apart latter. Not forgetting the Rudder apply glue and clamping materials to the Hull Halves and let set at least over night if not 24hrs.

Hint: Do not attach any other parts until all painting is done and completely dry.

Tape the Hull Halves tightly together before gluing (use masking tape). Check to see that the Hull Halves align properly. Then run a bead of "thick super glue" along the whole of the inside joint. This will not leak out very much, making for less of a cleanup along the outside joint. Also use close pins or clamps to help the tape out.

Next clean Hull of excess plastic to make it look like 1 piece, being careful not to remove details. Use sand able epoxy putty to fill where uneven. You can also sand or file the uneven surfaces flat.

If you intend to add weight to the Hull do it now. Plug the Propeller Shaft holes with tooth picks. Fill bottom of Hull with White Glue to a depth of 1/4" then dump your weight material into it, pressing down into the glue so it is imbedded. I'm using air soft pellets they can be drilled very easily. Lay down newspaper and set on top of a open cool whip size container. This will safely catch dripping glue. Let White Glue partially dry then pull tooth picks. Wait till completely dry and pour off loose pellets.

Now is a good time to dry fit all the deck parts in this way you can test the decks seating without scraping paint if they are oversize and need sanding.

Then using mild dish detergent wash the Hull to remove dust and mold release from the model. Use a soft tooth brush from the dollar store to scrub corners, watch out for delicate parts. Let completely dry at least 24hrs.

Hint: Always wash all plastic, resin or metal parts and let completely dry (usually 24 hours) before painting.

Now paint with the Rust-oleum primer grey. Paint the Hull and other parts from this step1 with primer. Let dry 24hrs.

Hint: Always use primer as it gives the paint something to adhere.

FORE DECK:

Prep all parts indicated in step2 for primer paint by cleaning excess plastic and removing parting lines (mold lines). Fit parts as you go. Set all aside do not paint with prime yet.

AFT DECK:

Same as in Fore Deck procedure but with parts indicated in step3. Clean, fit all parts, wash small parts and set aside .

FORE AND AFT DECKS TO HULL:

Now test fit the major deck parts to the hull. Cut, Sand and File as necessary till an easy fit is obtained. Then Wash let completely dry; Primer Paint let completely dry; Each of the Deck parts. Do this with any parts from step2 and step3 that are left to be completed.

PAINT AND ASSEMBLY SUB:1

At this point we want to paint all primer prepped parts to historical colors. Follow the chart above as a painting guide. Let dry 48hrs. Wear rubber gloves while handling painted parts. Glue all parts together.

Hint: Remember to scrape paint at glue joints and use the least amount of glue to form a firm joint.

Dr SciFi

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